Jansz Winemaker Natalie Fryar caught 'fooling around' with chardonnay
21 February 2009Leading Australian wine journalist, Jane Faulkner, catches up with Natalie Fryar to discuss the distinciveness of chardonnay in her Tasmanian, premium sparkling wines Devilish details Jane Faulker, The Age A2, Saturday 21 February 2009 JANSZ winemaker Natalie Fryar admits she’s been fooling for the past few years, and it’s been with chardonnay. She’s been tweaking here and there, all the while working towards a blanc de blanc style of sparkling wine, which is all chardonnay. The cool climate of Tasmania, specifically the maritime–influenced Pipers Brook region north of Launceston, is home to Jansz – the hub of the sparkling wine industry, with all the top producers in close proximity. Pinot noir is very much a feature in the vintage cuvée and the late disgorged wines, but Fryar says chardonnay, with its distinct aromas profile, defines the Jansz style. “There’s a nice balance between nougat, almond and honeysuckle notes when older to that zesty, grapefruit character in young chardonnay,” she says. “Pinot adds too, with its sea spray and truffle note … we’re chardonnay dominant but it’s not by much.” Depending on the vintage, the chardonnay component usually hovers around 54 per cent, occasionally going up to 60 per cent. “Yes I have been fooling around with blanc de blancs, as we are trying to make different wines with chardonnay, and so some parcels are 100 per cent barrel fermented. We’ve renewed a couple of blocks at the winery and planted them to interesting chardonnay clones but we’re still a few years away from releasing those wines,” she adds. Fryar isn’t in a hurry to rush things. After eight years at Jansz, she can talk confidently about understanding and appreciating the strengths and occasional weakness of particular sites. Pinot meunier was the weak link – the wrong clone that just didn’t perform well and so it no longer features in any blend – the last time it made an appearance was in 2003. Pinot meunier is the third variety often used in champagne or sparkling winemaking, and the Jansz site where it was planted, a block Fryar describes as “the most beautiful piece of soil”, is now planted in young chardonnay vines. If chardonnay gives the distinctive aromatic profile to Jansz wines, then wood and ageing on lees creates more complexity and texture on the palate. The vintage wine now sees 40 per cent oak – this is aged wood, between eight and 15-years old, because it’s not about adding oak character, “it’s about adding depth and a savouriness to it”, Fryar says. Another sparkling winemaking tool that adds complexity and texture is to leave the wine in the bottle on lees longer – the late-disgorged style spends seven years ageing that way; hence the name – when it’s ready to be released, the sediment that has collected at the neck of the bottle (where all the delicious, nutty, leesy rich nuances come from) is disgorged and the bottle resealed, ready for sale. “My preference is for vintage but I love the depth and resonance in the late-disgorged, with its truffle and nougat notes,” says Fryar. “It’s really very attractive. Mainly, though, this is just another expression of Tasmanian fruit. It’s unique, has strong presence, and that’s exciting.” Jansz Tasmania Late Disgorged Premium Cuvée 2001 [Tasmania] "This wine is all about enjoying and savouring those layers of complexity, the result of seven years on lees. There's plenty of richness, with toasty brioche notes, yet it's quite delicate with a touch of candied leon peel and a hint of a fig, plus a strawberry-spice note matched to lovely creamy mousse. It builds on the palate yet has pronounced refreshing acidity to finish, and great persistence. Terrific." Click here to read the winemakers notes Jansz Tasmania Premium Vintage Cuvée 2004 [Tasmania] "Winemaker Natalie Fryar says 2004 was a difficult vintage - cool temperatures and rain throughout the ripening period - but it's not obvious in this wonderfully balanced bubbly. Pinot noir, with its muted red fruit and spice notes, are to the fore alongside loads of fine bead and with plenty of rich, nutty, toasty autolysis notes, creamy and textural with good length." Click here to read the winemakers notes Jansz Tasmania Premium Non Vintage Rosé [Tasmania] "Jansz's vintage rose is one of the best - complex and focused - but for about half the price you can enjoy the non-vintage with its enticing copper onion-skin colour. There's a core of bright, fresh fruit with hints of strawberry and cream, fine mousse and cleansing acidity, just a bit short on the palate yet a refreshing finish." Click here to read the winemakers notes Back to top | 
